bluereefaquatics
06-20-2010, 10:30 AM
Water quality is the most important factor in maintaining a healthy aquarium. An important factor in water quality is temperature. The temperature range that tropical fish will tolerate is fairly wide and some fish are comfortable in the high eighties, although this is far above the ideal. An Ideal temperature for most fish would be 75 to 79F. It is important to limit the fluctuation of temperature to no more than 2 to 3 degrees in a 24hr period.
pH refers to the degree of acidity or alkalinity of water. Seawater is fairly alkaline with a pH of 8.0 or above. A good marine salt will maintain a pH level of 8.0 to 8.3 in your aquarium. Many things may cause pH to drop. Low oxygen will cause a buildup of carbon dioxide which lowers pH. Well aerated aquarium will help maintain proper pH levels. Normal biological functions will also gradually lower the pH and a monthly partial water change will replenish buffers and raise pH.
Specific gravity is the measure of dissolved salts in the water. Measured with a refractometer or hydrometer the ideal range is between 1.020 and 1.026 with the higher range for reefs and the lower for fish only systems. Remember that only fresh water evaporates, so your salt level may rise over time. This should be corrected by topping off regularly with quality ro/di water.
Ammonia is realesed into the water from fish waste and through the gills. It also comes from decomposition of any type of organic matter such as excess food on the bottom of the aquarium. Ammonia in small amounts can be deadly to fish and should be corrected immediately. Ammonia is converted into Nitrite and is less toxic then ammonia but it still can be deadly. Nitrite in high levels inhibits oxygen level in the blood of the fish. The optimum level for nitrite is 0.0 As nitrite is converted it turns to nitrate in the final step of the cycle process. When ammonia and nitrite have dropped to 0 the aquarium is considered to be cycled.
Nitrate is the least toxic and it is recommended to keep levels in the 20ppm to 40ppm or less in fish only aquarium and under 10ppm in reef aquariums. Lower levels are always better for the health of all your aquarium inhabitants. Nitrate accumulates in a marine aquarium with more fish and more food and can be removed by these methods; water changes of 20 to 50% per month (depending on fish and food load), through denitrification a process that converts nitrates into less harmful by products and the use of resins or substances that either absorb or provide an environment for the colonization of denitrifying bacteria. Remember that nitrate is just one way to monitor the water quality of your aquarium.
Blue Reef Aquatics recommends that you use quality heaters and chillers or a fan to maintain temperature levels, quality salt such as Instant Ocean and pH buffers to maintain pH and water quality, a refractometer to test salt levels and quality test kits to monitor aquarium levels regularly. A clean aquarium makes a happy environment for your inhabitants and a more enjoyable display for all of us to watch.
pH refers to the degree of acidity or alkalinity of water. Seawater is fairly alkaline with a pH of 8.0 or above. A good marine salt will maintain a pH level of 8.0 to 8.3 in your aquarium. Many things may cause pH to drop. Low oxygen will cause a buildup of carbon dioxide which lowers pH. Well aerated aquarium will help maintain proper pH levels. Normal biological functions will also gradually lower the pH and a monthly partial water change will replenish buffers and raise pH.
Specific gravity is the measure of dissolved salts in the water. Measured with a refractometer or hydrometer the ideal range is between 1.020 and 1.026 with the higher range for reefs and the lower for fish only systems. Remember that only fresh water evaporates, so your salt level may rise over time. This should be corrected by topping off regularly with quality ro/di water.
Ammonia is realesed into the water from fish waste and through the gills. It also comes from decomposition of any type of organic matter such as excess food on the bottom of the aquarium. Ammonia in small amounts can be deadly to fish and should be corrected immediately. Ammonia is converted into Nitrite and is less toxic then ammonia but it still can be deadly. Nitrite in high levels inhibits oxygen level in the blood of the fish. The optimum level for nitrite is 0.0 As nitrite is converted it turns to nitrate in the final step of the cycle process. When ammonia and nitrite have dropped to 0 the aquarium is considered to be cycled.
Nitrate is the least toxic and it is recommended to keep levels in the 20ppm to 40ppm or less in fish only aquarium and under 10ppm in reef aquariums. Lower levels are always better for the health of all your aquarium inhabitants. Nitrate accumulates in a marine aquarium with more fish and more food and can be removed by these methods; water changes of 20 to 50% per month (depending on fish and food load), through denitrification a process that converts nitrates into less harmful by products and the use of resins or substances that either absorb or provide an environment for the colonization of denitrifying bacteria. Remember that nitrate is just one way to monitor the water quality of your aquarium.
Blue Reef Aquatics recommends that you use quality heaters and chillers or a fan to maintain temperature levels, quality salt such as Instant Ocean and pH buffers to maintain pH and water quality, a refractometer to test salt levels and quality test kits to monitor aquarium levels regularly. A clean aquarium makes a happy environment for your inhabitants and a more enjoyable display for all of us to watch.